PPhoto of the Texas Monthly Top 50 BBQ issue

Are Texas Monthly’s barbecue rankings fair? Can you compare a joint open just one day a week to places open six and seven?

And a related, but more complicated fairness question: With so much of Texas Monthly’s overall business plan — events, tours, dinners, merchandise — now tied to barbecue, can the magazine look beyond its self interest when it comes to smoked meat?

After gurgling below the surface since the release of the latest Top 50 list last month, these issues erupted into full view this week when Ronnie Killen went public to the Houston media. He later elaborated in an electronic exchange with the Posse, which has heard similar comments from a couple other pit masters, though none would go public.

Killen owns Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland, which is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. The place made TM’s Top 50 but was not ranked among the elite 10.

“Love the story and setting at Snow’s,” he wrote of the Lexington joint, open only on Saturdays and ranked No. 1 by Texas Monthly. “But it’s a hobby not a business. Businesses are not open one day a week. You are not subjected to the very opinionated general public because they would never eat BBQ for breakfast and wait in a line for food and think people that do are crazy.”

Killen’s will be among the joints represented at Texas Monthly’s Meatup in Houston Saturday. Killen said his place is receiving $750 for the event and was told to expect about 600 guests. Tickets are $85 apiece plus tax.

“I’m spending exactly what they are giving and nothing more,” Killen said, who added that $750 was not much for the event and that he would not personally attend. “Again, it’s all about money for them. . .”

Earlier this week, Killen told the Houston media that he was not doing Texas Monthly’s annual barbecue festival any more. In a couple of past years, he said, the festival gave him $1,000 and he spent $10,000 or more for food and other expenses for the event.

I reached out to Texas Monthly for reaction to Killen’s comments. Daniel Vaughn, barbecue editor, called me.

“I think this is the first time we’ve ever experienced a pit master being unhappy about being in the Top 50,” Vaughn said. Later, he added: “Killen’s is one of the best places in the state. We would happily send people to go eat there.”

Regarding the fairness of judging joints open limited days with those operating all week long, Vaughn acknowledged that a smaller place, open fewer days, cooking less meat might have some advantage when it comes to judging and TM’s rankings. Time and quantity are factors in quality control.

“But if we start making those kinds of rules, where’s the cutoff?” he said.

He has a solid point. The Posse itself is split on this issue. Some of us like the all-in-one-class (think of the movie “Hoosiers”) approach to ranking joints. Some of us think it is unfair.

Regarding the more complicated question about Texas Monthly’s self interest, Vaughn said that from strictly a business point of view, it would have been more “advantageous” for the magazine to have Killen’s and other larger joints in the Top 10.

“We don’t go into it with the idea of which place will be the best draw for us,” he said.

Vaughn then talked about how the media landscape has changed, particularly in coverage of food.

“I do a lot more than a normal food critic,” Vaughn said. “I’m asked to be a public figure, asked to be a host at many of the public events we do and be right up there at the front of the room.”

He noted that in the past, restaurant critics tried to remain anonymous. But he said now everyone knows what Pete Wells (The New York Times) looks like and and everyone in Dallas knows what Leslie Brenner (The Dallas Morning News) looks like.

“Traditional food media magazines don’t make enough money so they need to do things outside the magazine,” he said. “For us, it’s events. And lucky for me some of the most successful have been barbecue events. People can’t get enough of barbecue.”

Photo from the 2013 Texas Monthly BBQ Festival

Aaron Franklin serves attendees at the 2013 Texas Monthly BBQ Festival. (Photo ©Mike Gagne/Texas BBQ Posse)

Leave a comment



Trace Arnold

5 months ago

KIllens is the best ( all round BBQ ) in the USA hands down.

Bford

5 months ago

When you factor in all the different meats, the sides and the amazing bread pudding, Killen’s is hard to beat. I might not ever have Snow’s because I don’t live close and my Saturday’s are generally pretty full with things to do. It would take a mini vacation to get there in time to be in line and eat. I’m not against waiting in line, but yeah, Snow’s is more of a well paying, professional hobby.

Ed Rigby

5 months ago

If you go by meat alone and forget all the sides – who gets the prize?

Brandon Mohon

5 months ago

Killen is coming out looking like a huge a**hole. He needs to be happy with where he is and quietly improve his process.

Nick Loesch

5 months ago

I detect the smell of sour grapes and A Trump like response by the offended business owner. I have not eaten his Bbq and probably never will make the effort to drive over 300 miles to sample it. Not sure i would drive across town eithet

Ryan Hardy

5 months ago

I agree with everything Ronnie said. The focus should be placed on the guests that frequent the restaurant versus a flawed list that caters to celebrity pitmasters and a magazines story lines.

Greg Smith

5 months ago

Well written article from Gary. Food for thought instead of food. Great points from all sides. There is no doubt Texas has gone crazy about BBQ but in my humble opinion it’s out of control when folks wait in the summer heat of Texas for hours to eat. It’s a “yuppy” social event and quite frankly silly. And thirty dollars a pound for brisket; too many old time Texans are falling down laughing or maybe jealous that this traveling circus can get away with this.




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