Frugal isn’t a word I’d use to describe the Posse. When we see something at a joint that looks good, we order it, whatever the price.
But as we’ve journeyed the Texas BBQ trail the past couple weeks, I’ve been struck by brisket prices: $22 a pound at Franklin Barbecue, $24 at LeRoy and Lewis, the excellent new trailer joint in south Austin, $20 or so at several other places.
So. we were pleasantly surprised when we went to Fargo’s Pit BBQ in Bryan recently: $16 a pound for fatty and $17 for lean.
“We wouldn’t get anyone buying at $22,” said Belender Wells, who owns and runs the place with pit master and partner Alan Caldwell.
And we had another pleasant surprise when we ate.
“I’m telling you man, the crust and the little bit of fat on the brisket, world class,” said Posse co-founder Chris Wilkins, who always orders fatty.
Wilkins just described what a friend of the Posse once called “the magic tingle,” a perfect combination of crust, fat and the tenderest of meat that melts in your mouth.
That experience at that price might just make Fargo’s brisket the best barbecue bargain in Texas right now.
Wells talked about the plans to move Fargo’s this summer to a larger location, not far away, with more parking and a small private conference room. She said the current location is jammed on Saturday’s when Texas A&M plays home football games in College Station.
She particularly remembers an Alabama game a while back with limousines crowding her small parking lot. She said she served 250-300 people that day.
“I was standing right there cutting as fast as I could,” she said, pointing behind the counter.
Fargo's Pit BBQ, 1220 N. Texas Ave., Bryan, 979-778-3662. Open Tues-Sat, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.